Leros – September 11, 2015

Map2Last night at dinner Dimitri marked up this map with a circle and a dot.  He said his friend has a Taverna on the island of Archangelos and he can take us over there @11:30 if we would like.  OK, sounds good.  The red line on the map is basically the only road so we take the bus in that direction.  We have been told that the bus driver looks like Robert Downey Jr.  I think Robert is off today!  He drives with the horn honking almost constantly.  Not in an angry way, but in “hi, I’m here kind of way”.  There is a woman that is getting off at the Marina, so we figure that is the place we need to be so we get off too.

DSC_7454We walk past a big shipyard.  As we get closer we see this big boat carrying apparatus 🙂 bringing a boat from the ocean.  We walk past this and we aren’t sure we are in the right spot.  We walk back to where the bus dropped us and find a sign map that turns us back again.  We get there and now see people waiting at a dock, so go to see if this is where we should be.  We show the map Dimitri marked up and the guy on the boat nods and asks, you will take the water taxi back?  We recall something like that from last night and agree.

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We laugh as we have no idea how we actually got to the correct place 🙂  We board the boat with 8 other people who seem to know each other.  The woman next to me asks where we are from and we find out that she and her husband are from Germany, the rest are from the Netherlands and have all been coming to Leros for 20 years.  They have a house here and spend 6 months at a time.  Not long after we leave the boat turns back.  Apparently there are 2 other people to come.  A Greek couple now board the crowded boat.

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We are travelling with the owner of the Taverna on the island.  He comes to the big island for supplies and takes people back to his place where there is a small beach and his Taverna Stigma.  His customers are the people he brings as well as boaters that anchor in the bay.

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The water here is soooo beautiful.

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We have some refreshments in the Taverna before we head down to the beach.

 

 

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At lunch time the beach is deserted as everyone heads up the hill to the Taverna to enjoy their menu.

 

 

 

DSC_7520The German lady tells me that their group wants to leave @ 5PM.  If that is ok with us we can all share the water taxi cost,  Works for us 🙂  There are 14 people on this small boat.  Quite crowded and I am sure there aren’t nearly enough life jackets on board, if any.  Just thinking again on the different standards there are at home compared to a place like this.

We survive and start to walk back to where the bus dropped us off.  We will walk a bit further to the town not too far away and catch the bus back.  The Germans and the Netherlanders wave as they pass us.  The Greek couple, stops and asks where we are going.  He then jumps out of the car and hustles us into the backseat.  They are going right near Papafotis, to the spot we caught the bus this morning.  Perfect.  He has fairly good English, his wife not so much.  Very kind of them.  She is from Leros and lives here 3 months of the year, the rest in Athens.  They are going back to Athens on Sunday as they need to vote in their election.

Another GREAT DAY!  🙂

 

 

 

Leros – September 10, 2015

MapWe are looking at the map of the island.  It looks like there is a beach on the north east part of the island.  We walked that direction the other day, but did not carry on past a little church on a bluff.  Francesca is not at her desk as we leave so we don’t ask her about it, we just head off.

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As we get to the little church we look back towards Papafotis, our hotel/apartment and look at the view of our little bay.

 

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The next little cove has a secluded beach, but no shade for me 🙁

 

 

 

DSC_7438Carrying on we come across the cute little Ford car we saw the other night.  There is a name on the side.  It is a “Street Ka”.  We have seen the Ka in Europe before, but not this sporty little model.  Apparently it is made by Fiat in Poland.

 

DSC_7439We reach the end of the road and the only beach we see seems to belong to a hotel and a Taverna in the bay.  Stu asks a fellow that is working near the end of the road and from what we piece together from our languages is that there is a boat that will come and get you.

Unsure of this we head back to Papafotis and a nice spot under a tree at “Our Beach”.  We have borrowed a couple of books from the office, so it is a beach reading day.

DSC_7448Dinner takes us back to Taverna To Steki, where we had such a great meal the other night.  Dimitri told us to come back tonight as he had live music.  We ask him as he sits down with us, (something that we see he does with everyone) what is good tonight.  He suggests the grilled fish and prawns as well as the Greek Salad.

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We order red wine, but are overruled by Dimitri as we are having fish !!  We get a half litre of white wine 🙂

 

 

DSC_7451We finish dinner a complimentary plate of watermelon.  We have been served this after every meal on Leros.  Seems to be a standard.

Oh yes, we also have our first Ouzo since arriving in Greece.

Another great day!

Leros – September 9, 2015

DSC_7414Do you see that castle wwwaaaayyyy up on the top of that mountain??  Well…..   I am not promising Stu anything.  We are going to walk around the bay and see how we do, but I don’t think I can walk around the bay and UP to the castle.

 

DSC_3569It is a very blustery day today.  We are getting into a bigger town from where we are staying.  Need to find a Bankomat today.  We find one and request to withdraw 500 Euros.  No go.  Oh oh…  We select a different amount, 300 Euros.  It asks for the account but doesn’t display the usual account we use.  I pick something and tada!!  300 Euros.  We’re good 🙂

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This is very nice little town.  This is a street we pass.

 

 

 

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Feeling not too bad we sit in a busy little square high in the town and I can see and hear the flag at the castle flapping in the wind.  OK.  Let’s go for it!!

 

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We have some shady spots to walk in at first…

 

 

 

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Then we are out in the open.  The wind is helping to keep us cooler.

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Higher and higher.  A little water break.

 

 

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We made it!!  I am pretty pumped!  Almost 1 year ago I crumpled taking 1 step up into Chad and Amber’s house.  This is pretty HUGE!!

 

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There is no railing up here.  If I take 1 more step here I am tumbling down to the Aegean!  We look around and are amazed as at home there would be fences, railings and warning signs everywhere!!

 

 

 

An amazing accomplishment.  I am patting my back 🙂

Oh yeah!!  We went back down and all the way back to our hotel!

 

Leros – September 8, 2015

DSC_3517We decided to walk up to a little chapel that Stu saw up on the hill beside our hotel.  Francesca assured us that we could walk there.  Go out to the road and turn left and the next left.  After that it was pretty vague.

 

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After a slight wrong turn we found ourselves on the right track.  The sun is shining as seems to be the norm here.

 

 

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Down below is the little bay we are staying in.

 

 

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There are many many of these little chapels outside peoples homes or along the roadside.  They usually have a candle.  Some have photo’s of people who have passed on (my assumption).

 

DSC_3554We see another bunker here.  Since Kos we have learned that Greece was quite involved in WWII.  They entered the war in 1940, when the Italian army invaded from Albania, beginning the Greco-Italian War.  So I guess these bunkers were not just to deter “Those Bastards”!!

 

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Here is that guy who is responsible for most of the awesome photos we have 🙂

 

 

 

 

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We come across this gate to nowhere.  It is a good thing it is locked up tight!

 

 

DSC_7424This little number pulls up to the restaurant we having dinner at.  We see it coming and say “What is that??”  Turns out it is a Ford!!  It has elements of an Audi TT, even a Volkswagen Bug and Stu thinks the back end is Lexusish.  I even googled and couldn’t find it.

Kardamena, Kos 2 Leros – September 7, 2015

I am feeling a bit unwell this morning.  We assume it has something to do with the heat.  It has been very hot the past few days.  We were going to catch a bus at 7:50 AM to Kos town to catch the 11 AM ferry, which would get us there very very early.  I am feeling that I need a bit more sleep so we decide to take a cab instead.  That gives me some much needed sleep.

We walk to the center of town where the cab station is and get the next cab in line.  After a couple of minutes he asks if we are sure we need to go to Kos Town for the ferry and not Mastichari (which is MUCH closer).  We confirm that yes, we do need to go to Kos Town, but thanks for asking!  😉  We have had a few directional challenges along the way.  He is much chattier than the guy who picked us up at the airport the other night.

As we get to Kos Town he tells us that 300 to 400 refugees arrive every night from Turkey.  The new arrivals make their way to the Police Station to receive information and help.  I don’t know how many aid workers there are or how quickly these people are being helped.  It seems orderly here the way things are being done.

Stu took a walk about and gets some more photos (click here is you would like to view them).

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We have a 1.5 hour ferry ride and stop first at Kalymnos.  The town looks nice, but the island outside of the town looks pretty barren.

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We have heard it is nice here though.

We arrive in Leros.  Our hotel Papafotis said they would send a taxi for us.  As we disembark we are looking for people with signs.  We spot “Hotel Papafotis”.  Stu signals the driver so he lowers his sign.

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I am needing a nap, so Stu goes out for some photo ops and comes back with these 🙂

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This is the road in town.  The beach is on the right.  The buildings, hotels, restaurants and mini marts on the left.

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Except for when the restaurant spills across the street 🙂

My stomach is feeling much better as we head out to dinner.  YEAH!!!

Kardamena, Kos – September 6, 2015

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Stu is up early this morning to take some shots of the town before most people are up and about.

 

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Even Greg’s Place is quiet 🙂

 

 

 

Today we have arranged to rent a car from Luka’s. 10 Euro cheaper than anywhere else we checked. We have a Fiat Panda. We think we had a Panda in France in 2007. They haven’t changed much.

We get the instructions on how to drive in Greece. Since there are a lot of Brits, be careful of them driving on the wrong side of the road because they forget. Good to know!!  He also tells us that in Greece the driver on the right ALWAYS has the right of way. Even if you are in a traffic circle and someone comes up on the right, they have the right of way. At home, if you are already in the circle you have the right of way. Not here!!

We head toward Kos town as that is where the ferry we will be taking to Leros tomorrow is leaving from. We park where Kosta (who runs Luka’s I know it is confusing) tells us to park. From there we make our way down to the port. We find the Blue Star ticket kiosk and inquire about ferry times tomorrow. They are at 11 and 2 and are 1.5 hours duration. We say “can we just buy the tickets tomorrow?” We are told “No, TODAY. There are no more seats left for today” it is 10:45, 15 minutes to the first sailing. ooohhh Okay then. We buy the tickets for the 11AM sailing tomorrow.

DSC_7349From the Blue Star kiosk we decide to walk along the sea wall next the the Castle Ruins. We knew that migrants were landing in Kos Town, but now we see the evidence. The inflatable boats, some not so inflated any longer.

 

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The life jackets floating alone in the water and the tents set up in the blazing sun along the base of the castle. Oh boy, this is not just a news flash!

 

DSC_7355We are seeing this first hand. Families with little children. So disturbing. These people are on the east side of the castle walls.  At this time of day and probably most of the day they are in the blazing sun.

 

I see people (aid workers I assume) talking to families, taking down information. I hope that they will be helped soon.

DSC_7366We see people walking in the direction of Kos Town. Caring luggage and wearing long sleeves and long pants. Very different from the tourists in shorts and t-shirts that they are passing. We assume that they have recently landed and are heading to the town in order to plan their next steps.

 

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We go back to our car and drive a bit further south looking for a restaurant at “agios Fukos”  recommended by Jim Beck (Joan Carlyle’s brother).  We did not find it, but we did find a much different world.  Behind me is a very fancy resort.  Feels quite odd after what we have just seen.

 

 

We head back in the direction of Kardamena the town we are staying in. There are a couple of beach towns on the north side of the island. We decide to check them out and stop for lunch if it appeals. The first town is a huge resort town. Lot’s of beach clubs all with different colour scheme umbrellas. It is too busy for us.

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We carry on to Marmaris and find a spot to park. The first spot we come to is Biggys on the beach.  Their greeter greets us and we sit in a shady spot order 2 beers and 2 gyros. Very nice.

 

DSC_3474We are directly across the street from the beach. Again colour co-ordination. We assume it is a pay beach, again 5 or 6 Euros for a couple lounge chairs and an umbrella. They seem to have showers as well.

 

I overhear an Australian woman, who I assume from the conversation, owns Biggys by the Beach. She is very concerned about the migrant situation. It is hurting her business greatly. As I mentioned before, Kos has been hit in the pocket book by people avoiding the island due to the economy and now the migrant crisis. She says (I have not checked any other sources, so this is just hearsay 😉 ) that there are only 8 police officers on the island normally. Now they are beefed up with military personnel and she says “the bloody Scotland Yard” Again not sure if this is true, but she is very concerned that her season has been affected negatively by all of the recent events. Hard not to sympathize with her and very hard not to sympathize with the Syrian people fleeing terror in their country.

Back we go to return our car to Luka’s. They close for a few hours in the afternoon, but we see a young man going into the office as we arrive. He gets a beer from the fridge inside ;). We ask when the shop will be open again. He says 5, I think. I will go ask, Kosta is my father-inlaw he says.

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Next thing we know Kosta is leaning down from the roof top terrace. Asking if we are done with the car and if we filled it with gas. Yes and Yes we say. He laughs and then sends down a blue plastic bag on a rope for us to put the key into.

 

 

 

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He says “the elevator is coming down” Haha. We pop the car keys in the bag and he pulls it back up. Cool!!

Off to Chris’s for a beer and a couple swims.

Kardamena, Kos – September 5, 2015

DSC_3424It is moving day again. Stu’s turn go bring home the caffeine. We are enjoying the little decks we have in this place. One always has shade. We drink our coffee with buns, cheese and ham on the West Deck.  This is the place.  You need to remember that Stu makes places look good for a living!!  Not as nice as it looks, REALLY.

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From there we don’t see the folks in the NICE hotel enjoying their pool. Bonus!!

 

 

We pack up and strap on the backpacks and head out. We knock at Maria’s door to drop off the keys. She is in the lobby, so we give her the keys. She asks if we think we will need her place on the way back. Ahhh….. Not sure, not sure how we are going back. “little white lie” she gives us her contact info in case we need a place in Kos for the return. She is a nice lady and obviously needs the income, but I don’t think we’ll be back.

The Captain Sun Apartments that Maria runs cost us 30 Euros ($45 CAD) per night. We are moving to Luka’s apartments for 35 Euros ($52.50 CAD). No, we haven’t seen the suite, but we have seen the building and the outside is miles ahead of Captain Sun.

DSC_3425We walk over to Luka’s, Stu stays with our stuff and I walk down to the Luka’s office to get the keys. Costas drives me back and shows us the room. It is still pretty basic. No shower curtain, no AC, no soap in the bathroom or the kitchen, no coffee maker. But this is the view from the teeny tiny deck!!! Yeah! And Chris Snacks and Cocktails is right next door and we can spend time in the sun beds under the umbrellas if we buy a water from Chris.

DSC_3428This is how we access wifi.  Chris has it next door.  If I sit on the deck I can connect, but then I can’t read the screen on my laptop.  So I shield the screen so I can download McKeen’s hockey stuff for Stu.  Hahaha!!

 

Off we go for a walk. Heading east from Lukas. There is very little development past 200 meters from our new place. Bare beach and a few people enjoying the Aegean. There are a number of “Beach Clubs”. You can pay 5 or 6 Euros for an umbrella and 2 sun beds. There are also places with a pool and a bar that you go to. Just buy a drink and you can enjoy the pool and other amenities.

We are noticing mounds along the beach and on further examination notice that they are bunkers buried in the sand with gun sights out to the ocean. We pass about a dozen before we decide to turn back to town.

As we go to our new favourite place with wifi, Chris’s I google “bunkers Kos”. A few hits come up, but mostly other people wondering what they are. We don’t remember much of Greece’s involvement in WWII, but that could be just our fading memories  🙁  😉

We ask our host at Chris’s (Michael is his name, we think he is Chris’s husband). Oh, the “Pill Boxes” he says. “That is in case those bastards come”…. and he tilts his head to the east. I say, “you mean the Turks??” He says how did you know? I didn’t say who!!!. I say “just a guess”. Apparently there is no love lost between the Greeks and “Those Bastards”.

Lessons learned.

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Oh yeah. This is what we see from our room tonight. NICE!!

Kardamena, Kos – September 4, 2015

We wake up way too early. 🙁  Our place has a kitchen of sorts but no coffee maker, so I am off to find caffeine. As it was the middle of the night when we arrived I have no idea what is around us.

DSC_7332There is a nice looking hotel with a pool across from us. It has a sign welcoming anyone to the pool bar. If you buy drinks you can use their facilities. I walk towards the ocean and find a place that is open and offers full English breakfast. I order take away coffee, it seems to be quite an ordeal.

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Caffeine in hand I walk back to our little place. We do have 2 little decks that are the best thing about this place.

 

 

With coffee consumed we head of to explore and to find new digs! We see a number of car rental places so we start shopping around for a car. In our wanderings we come across a fair sized grocery store, so stop in to pick up a few things for our place. Beer, wine, cheese and some great fresh buns. Decide to head back to the place as we need to eat some of this stuff!

We enjoy the buns with cheese on our deck overlooking the nice hotel pool.

DSC_3413Back out on the hunt for a new place. It is difficult as this place doesn’t have wifi, so online is hard. Laptop in tow we search out a bar with wifi as we have seen a number of them. We choose Chris’s Snack and Cocktail Bar.

 

DSC_7327We search online and find very little in Kardamena so we ask our host. He says there are apartments right next door. To enqire about them we need to go to a car rental place down the street called “Luka’s”.

 

DSC_7330So after enjoying the beer, the views and a swim, we head to Luka’s to find out if they have availability. We find the place. An older couple are in the office and they tell us they have a place for 35 Euro’s. We know the building, it is right on the ocean. SOLD!! We book it for tomorrow and the next night.

He has Visa signs on the door. So we ask if they will take Visa for the room. Ahhh no please. Another side to this story than what we see at home. If we pay with Visa, they can only get 50 Euros a day from the bank. So it is a Catch 22. The banks are controlling  the cash, the people avoid the banks, the government probably never knows about the income, hence CRISIS!

Now our lack of sleep is catching up to us and it is nap time.

DSC_7343Out hunting for a place for dinner. They all have their “people” out chatting us up and telling us why we should eat at their restaurant. After a few we decide on Alexander’s. We have been looking forward to Greek food. We share cheese Saganaki, Stu has a seafood dish and I have their chicken Souvlaki.

DSC_7340The woman who enticed us is from the UK. It seems this town has a lot of Brit tourists. She now lives here full time and tells us that it is beautiful, but there is no work between October and April. This year they have been hit particularly hard with the Greek economic crisis and the migrant crisis.

Lots of empty/closed businesses here.

Villach 2 Kos – September 3, 2015 – Trains, Planes & Automobiles

DSC_7305This is our “Trains, Planes and Automobiles” day. Our only photos today are “through the train window photos” 🙂

 

 

 

TRAINS:
DSC_7307We start in Villach on the train. We have reserved seats in a 6 person compartment. The young man who sold us the tickets at the train station said it was best to have reserved seats as it is very busy.

 

DSC_7306We’re not sure if we paid extra. Our seats are the only reserved ones in our compartment and we have to evict some young people who thought they scored an empty one. Some leave but 4 stay on with us. We can tell from their conversation that they are Irish. So we strike up a conversation with them. We have Irish experience 🙂

DSC_7315They are 8 friends travelling for 3 weeks before college resumes. Staying in hostels and travelling on trains. Some are wearing bracelets that we have seen on other young people. I thought they were hostel bracelets, but it turns out they are train passes. These kids are from the Dublin area and have 1 night in Venice before flying home the next day. They were great compartment mates.

We arrive at Venice Mestre train station, the one that is closest to the airport. Following the signs for the airport shuttle we arrive at a bus station just outside the train station. Stu goes in to buy tickets. 8 Euros each. Direct bus though. Upon arrival at Marco Polo Airport we see that there is a lot of construction going on. We don’t recognize much at all. We flew home from here two years ago.

PLANES:
It is about 3PM and the airport is soooo busy. We have a very long time to kill (about 7 hours) before our flight to Kos. Stu guards our stuff and I go in search of somewhere less chaotic. We feel that we are invisible as others are just cutting across our paths intent on their own destination. Numerous times we are dodging other people that just don’t seem to notice we are there. This kind of thing makes me a little CRAZY!!

I find a cafe in the arrivals area and guide Stu back there. We sit and get a couple of beers. 4.90 Euros each, crap we are used to 2-2.50 Euros. We are now in Italy and our friend Clayton tells us that EVERYTHING is expensive in Italy 🙂

There are lots of people arriving. We see one guy from afar. I tell Stu that is the Italian Hulk Hogan. He is big, wearing tight tank top (or whatever the male version is called), tight jeans, a cowboyish hat, long dark hair and dark Hulk Hoganish facial hair. He walks past where we are and I get my camera ready for his return. He is too quick, was back before I got my spy camera ready. Darn. He was a character. The Venice Film Festival is on at the moment. Maybe he is some big Italian Action Star!!!

DSC_7321We find that wine in the airport is much cheaper than beer. So With a little bottle of wine, a couple real wine glasses we start a Scrabble Marathon.

Time to board the plane. We have very low expectations for this airline Volotea. One review we read said he wished he could give negative numbers for his rating. The fare was cheap and only a 2.5 hour flight, so we rolled the dice. We only booked about 24 hours in advance and were assigned seats 1A & 1B. Front row, has a bit more legroom. Bonus. The plane is a Boing 717. From other reviews people were complaining how loud the 717 is. Okay, We have been on a couple of flights in the past few years and this was no louder than some of the newer planes. The flight was on time and got us to where we wanted to go. We rate it A1.

AUTOMOBILES:
We arrive in Kos @ 1:15 AM. We are another time zone east now. There is a queue of taxis outside waiting for our flight and we get the next guy in line. We show him the address of our booked place and off we go. It is about 15 minutes and he doesn’t say a word to us. He finds the place, asks for 15 Euros and is off. Not sure if all of them are this personable or he was hoping for a fare to the far end of the island. We have had that happen in Vegas. Cab driver was not happy at the short distance we were going. I think he just about got us killed. I put my seatbelt on part way through that cab ride. Stu was in the front seat with a horrified look on his face. Breaking all the way 🙂

Maria met us at the door and showed us our accomodation. YIKES!!!! Not great. It is late and we just need to sleep. We have booked this place for 2 nights to get us started. We will find something better tomorrow!

Off to see the world