Vienna – August 26, 2015

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We arrive very early in Vienna and drop our bags at the hotel we booked.  It seems quite far from the action. 🙁  But it is VERY reasonable 🙂

 

 

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As we walk we are seeing extraordinary buildings!   Beautiful, we are speechless.  We walk into town and buy tickets for one of the Hop On Hop Off tours.  More incredible buildings.

 

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Beautiful churches.

 

 

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A boat cruise is included in our bus tickets so we leave the bus for a boat ride on the Danube.

As we wait we have a beer with this beautiful church behind us.

 

We move to the top deck to see the most we can.  After about half an hour a young man comes up and tells us that the top deck is now closed, with no explanation.

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Shortly after that we head through a lock to the Danube Canal.  The locks are closed by barriers that go up like 1950’s garage doors.  In retrospect, I don’t think there was clearance for the top deck, but that is just a guess.  This at the beginning to the lock drainage.

 

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This is at the end.

 

 

 

The lock process takes about 30 minutes and then we are off to continue the Hop On Hop Off and get as close to our hotel as possible.  It is pushing 3PM and we are in need of a nap! 🙂

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Off to our off the beaten path hotel.  We are pleased with the room.  It is just a long way from the action.

 

Krakow – August 25, 2015

We buy a Hop On Hop Off ticket for Krakow today.  We are leaving on the night train so we have one day left in Krakow.

We disembark the bus at Schindler’s Factory and go to the museum that now fills the factory.  It is fascinating.  We need to re-watch the movie.  Schindler seems to be an enigma.  A spy for the Germans, a cheating husband, a thief and yet he risked his life saving many of the Jews that worked for him.  A more interesting story than we remember from the movie, for sure!

HOHOBus1As we leave the sky opens up and pours rain.  We get on our Hop On Hop Off bus that does not have windows and sit on the aisle seats to avoid getting soaked.   The bus stops at the next stop, all of the other passengers get off.

HOHOBus2We scramble to claim their primo seats in the front of the bus, only to be told that there is another bus waiting for us behind.  This one has windows!

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We ride to the train station/mall and decide to do some indoor sightseeing to kill some time before our train departs.  We could buy these jeans for 40 Zlotny or $15 CAD.  We decide to see if we can find them for a better price!

 

 

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In Krakow the sidewalks are very wide.  We learn that is so that you can park on them.

 

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We upgraded to a private couchette for this leg of our journey.  True the couchette was much more comfortable than our previous couchette and no one was being awakened early for a different destination.

 

 

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We even have a little sink in our compartment!

 

 

However, it was still a bit of a rollercoaster 🙂  We stopped soon after departure for about 20 minutes.  Lots of banging and crashing as we assume the cars were re-configured based on destination.  We were on our way.  Multiple times during the night we were stopped, re-coupled and off again.  The upside is we don’t waste an entire day travelling the same distance.

Krakow 2 Auschwitz – August 24, 2015

After our breakfast we head over to the train station to buy tickets on the night train to Vienna for tomorrow night.  This time we book a private compartment so that we won’t have the issue of compartment mates disembarking at a different station.    Mission accomplished!

DSC_3197We are taking a tour of Auschwitz today so head over to the place where we will be picked up.  The Old Town of Krakow is surrounded by a park.  We will be picked up near here so we take some time to enjoy the green space (even though they are jack hammering the street near by)

Our bus takes about an hour and a half to drive to Auschwitz.  The process to get in seems very complex.  They have tours in many languages and limits on numbers of people in each group.  A Security check lineup is also part of the deal.

We learn that there are actually 3 camps at Auschwitz.  Auschwitz I, Auschwitz II (Birkenau) and Auschwitz III (Monowitz).  We are visiting I and II today.

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The tour group is almost silent for the whole 3 hours.  Very little conversation and no questions for our guide.  The displays in the museum are mind boggling.

 

DSC_3220We think we knew the story of this place, but we only knew the tip of the iceberg!  Auschwitz I was the testing grounds for Auschwitz II which was built on a MUCH LARGER scale.

 

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These are from Birkenau.

 

 

 

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They show the vastness of the camp.

 

Krakow – August 23, 2015

Well that was an experience!  The train car has an attendant and we have a chain to lock the door from the inside, so no worries of being robbed.  At times we are not moving.  They drop cars along the way, (at stations I assume, as we didn’t look out the windows) so other trains pick them up depending on where the occupants are travelling to.  Then next thing you know we are on our way again.

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It is a beautiful morning in the Krakow Old Town.  We have arrived at 7AM.  Not your usual check in time 🙂

 

 

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It takes us a bit to figure out where we are going, but are able to drop of our bags off and head out to see the city.

 

 

We gather in the square next to St.Mary’s church and locate the Free Krakow tour guides.  Off we go at 10.  Our tour guide is knowledgeable and has a great sense of humor.  A Pole named Damien, like the movie the Omen he doesn’t fail to mention.

The quiet Krakow we met this morning is becoming very crowded with tourists.  We get to the end of our 2.5 tour and find an little spot we noticed on our tour for lunch.  We both had great salads.

We head back to check into our “apartment” and discover that it has a shared fridge and microwave in the hall.  A few dishes and an electric kettle.  Not the great amenities that we had in Prague.  Oh well.

As we had a very choppy sleep on the train, we crash for a couple of hours.  As we leave, we see several VERY intoxicated people on the street outside of our place.  Hmmm could be an interesting night!

DSC_6936The center of town is setup as a market that I assume is a full time thing.  Lots of food and drink stalls as well as almost anything else you would like to buy.  Lace, wooden carvings, souvenirs.  A bustling place.

 

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We stroll around looking at menus, trying to decide on dinner.  The streets are a lot less crowded than they were earlier.  I suspect that a lot of those people are day trippers and have now left on their buses.  We decide on perogies and of course beer!

 

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We enjoy a stroll around old town.

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Prague 2 Krakow – August 22, 2015

DSC_3182We decided to go out and take some photos of the astronomical clock in the old town square.  The day we did our tour was very drizzly and Stu didn’t take any photos.  We think that the Hop-On-Hop-Off bus will be a great way to get us there.  As we make our way to our local stop, we see a bus go past us and resign ourselves to waiting for the next one.  When we arrive at the stop there are about a dozen people also waiting.  Another bus arrives shortly, but is full and no one is Hopping Off.  There is some discussion from the people there ahead of us as it becomes apparent that the previous bus was also full.  They were not happy.  We use our trusty feet and are in the town square very quickly.  Stu takes some photos of the clock and we look around.  There are soooo many people!!  We are feeling a bit claustrophobic and need to escape the crowds.

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We saw a couple of islands in the river on our previous walks and head towards them.  Slovanský ostrov is the first one.  It is beautiful.

 

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Lots of grass and trees and hardly any people.  They rent peddle boats from here.  We spend some time looking for a geocache that is close by.

 

DSC_6876We are thinking that it is time for a beer and a bite to eat so decide to walk over to the other island, Střelecký ostrov.  There are a couple of choices for food and drink.  One looks very upscale and the other is a barge with an outdoor grill serving beer, grilled corn, grilled sausage among a few other items.  They have picnic bench tables and a great setting right on the river.  2 big beers and a sausage for about $6 CAD.

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We take our time enjoying our food and the views of the many types of paddle boats on the river.

 

 

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We feel the urge for a rousing game of scrabble, so off we go to find ourselves another park bench.  It is very peaceful here!

 

DSC_6901We have checked out of our hotel and stored our bags until we head to the train station later tonight.  We opt to Hop On the bus and just ride to our hotel stop listening to the commentary, some of it for the 2nd or 3rd time.  Surprisingly it seems to be just as interesting after the first time.

We collect our bags and walk to the train station arriving early for our 10PM train.  We chat with a young couple from Toronto who have been working in Vimy Ridge for a year and are doing some additional travelling before on to their next assignments.

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The couchette is pretty tight.  We have the bottom 2 bunks and thought perhaps we would be alone until a young Spanish couple arrived.  They are travelling by train throughout Europe.

 

 

 

DSC_6919Head to bed shortly after the train departs Prague.  Our first experience sleeping on a train (ok family – no train jokes :))  The bunks are very very firm and at times we feel we are trying to sleep on a roller coaster!  Our Spanish friends are disembarking about 2 hours ahead of us, so that means we are awake too.  We are able to doze a bit more until we reach Krakow, which we do to a beautiful morning!

Prague – August 21, 2015

We wake up this morning and the sun is shining.  Yeah!!  After our home cooked breakfast of eggs, toast and coffee we head off.  Stopping at our front desk we ask about the Hop-On Hop-Off tour.  We are taking the night train to Krakow tomorrow night, so we will have all day tomorrow to fill with activities as well.  We can buy a  48 hour Hop-On/Off ticket for 600 K (Crowns) each (about $68 CAD for both of us).  This includes 3 different lines and a boat trip.  OK.  Sold!

DSC_3083Our first Hop-On is just around the corner from our apartment/hotel.  We head first to Prague Castle which is a few stops away for us.  Just as we are arriving the changing of the guards begin.  This is in the street leading to the inner castle where the ceremony takes place.  We get a pretty great show as they march by us.

Prague Castle is more than just a castle.  It is a whole complex of buildings and according to Wikipedia:

The castle buildings represent virtually every architectural style of the last millennium.

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They are getting a new roof.  I hope they have saved enough crowns!  Looks like a big job.

 

 

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Lots of people to see the guards change and lots of selfie sticks poking up over the crowds to get a look at the action.

 

 

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There is a huge staircase leading back down towards the Charles Bridge.  Named after one of the good and great Czech kings Charles IV.  Interestingly he is succeeded by King Wenceslaus, who wasn’t “a Good King Wenceslaus”.  Again according to Max he liked Wine, Women and Wenceslaus!

 

 

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Now time for some lunch and pivo (beer).  We find this little place.  It even serves “Stewed Salmon”.  How appropriate 🙂

 

 

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Instead we have Goulash Soup in a bread bowl.  The recipe passed down from the owners grandmother (maybe they all say that)!

 

 

 

DSC_6825We see this weird thing driving down the street.  Four people (looks like they can have 5) peddling like mad and one steerer.  They face each other.  The have a little table in the middle.  It must feel odd peddling and going sideways!  Probably a tour??

 

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Next – Hop-On the boat.  Very civilized.  However, a bottle of water costs exactly the same as beer.  Not sure which one is wrong?

 

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Perfect day for a cruise along the Vltava!  We have been waiting for some sunshine and warmth. 🙂

 

 

DSC_6859-2It is August 21.  The anniversary of the Prague Spring.  In Wenceslaus Square they are gearing up for a party!  Hopefully they have a permit 🙂
DSC_3177In the evening we head back to the river to get some awesome shots of Prague Castle lit up.  Our tour guide Max told us that The Rolling Stones paid to have the lighting installed and for several years of power bills as the Czech government didn’t have the dosh for trivial things like this.  I’m sure it was a great deal for them.  Thousands of people line the river and the Charles Bridge to view it.

Prague – August 20, 2015 Addendum

We learned from our tour guide yesterday that the Czech government recently voted down a proposed ban on smoking indoors.  He said the people were not happy with that decision.  It seems that smoking in a restaurant is up to the individual establishment.  The result is we cannot assume that dining indoors will be smoke free in the Czech Republic.  The restaurant we ate at last night had a smoking section upstairs and non-smoking down.  We have been noticing some non-smoking signs in some restaurants and others with ashtrays on the tables.  Guess which ones we will spend our money with 🙂

Prague – August 20, 2015

DSC_2982The day is brighter and dry!  A great day for walking and photos.  This photo shows a memorial to student Jan Palach who committed suicide by self immolation (setting himself on fire) to protest the Soviet occupation of Czechoslovakia in 1969.  This is a very subtle memorial.  I had to google it to find out what it was.

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This city has stunning architecture.  I can imagine these buildings when they were built.  Such opulence and grandeur.

 

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We ended up doing something our guide from yesterday told us not to do.  Go to the Charles Bridge in the middle of the day!  Prague in August is something!

We bumped into our Chilean train compartment-mates twice today and once yesterday.  There are thousands of people in this city.  How weird is it that we see them so often 🙂

Our wandering took us to the John Lennon Wall.  A wall we knew nothing about until today.  Here is some info Wikipedia kindly provided.

DSC_3028The Lennon Wall or John Lennon Wall, is a wall in Prague, Czech Republic. Once a normal wall, since the 1980s it has been filled withJohn Lennon-inspired graffiti and pieces of lyrics from Beatles’ songs.

To read more Lennon Wall

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We happened upon this outdoor food court just after the Lennon Wall.  Sooo many good things cooking.  They have beer and wine stands as well.  You find a “standup” table and enjoy your lunch!

 

 

 

DSC_3031We have seen similar sites in other European cities, but this is the biggest collection we have seen.  Hundreds of pad locks locked to the railing here near the Lennon Wall.  The deal is this – lovers pledge their love, lock the lock and toss the key into the water

♥ ♥ ♥

Prague – August 19, 2015

We sleep a bit later today as we control our own breakfast.  I make coffee while someone else sleeps a bit longer.  🙂

DSC_2963So far it is dry outside but overcast.  By the time we get going at about 10:15 it is drizzling again.  We have decided to take one of the “Free Walking Tours” offered in the old town.  The streets are a sea of umbrellas (except for us.  We purposely did not pack ANY rain or cold weather clothing!  It is summer, we are packing light, what are the odds????)  We cave and buy a 99 koruna ($5 CAD) umbrella and become one of the crowd.

 

DSC_2967We enter the square with the Astronomical Clock at about 10:45.  The clock does it’s performance on the hour and there are many people gathered to witness it.  We see a young man (Max) with an umbrella advertising free tours in English.  We chat briefly with him and discover that he is from the San Francisco area and has been travelling since graduating university trying to find himself 🙂  He also tells us that the Astronomical Clock is the 2nd most overrated tourist attraction in Europe.  We wait for the performance and agree it is a bit underwhelming.

DSC_2960We find Max who is now gathering his tour participants.  We spend 2.5 hours with him hearing interesting details of Prague’s history. We find this great street!  It’s great rulers, it’s not so great rulers.  The boom times and the opposite.  He was very entertaining and knowledgeable.  Worthy of a 20 Euro tip at the end of the Free Tour 🙂

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We head to the pub under the place that Mozart lived and caroused.  They have great ribs there so we share one order and it seems it is a 2 beer lunch day.

 

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Apparently Stu is back into the “Girly Beer” 🙂

 

 

 

While there we witness something VERY STRANGE.  Into the restaurant about 8 people enter.  They walk in a line towards the stairs that lead to the toilets.  There are men and women and they are all dressed oddly.  They are all very thin and the men are wearing suits that appear to be at least 2 sizes too big.  Some with brief cases, some without.  The women were also dressed oddly.  They all seemed much too formal for the pub and even for Prague they stood out.  A while later the parade re-appears from downstairs and walks out of the restaurant.  This time there were no women, only men, more men than originally came in.  The way they were dressed make me recall the old war movies like Stalag 17 and the Great Escape where there was a prisoner who was a tailor who made suits for all the men that were to escape so that they would blend in.  Or concentration camp refugees??  These people seemed so “out of time”,  and what happened to the women???  I went downstairs to use the washroom and found a mens room and a womens room plus another room for private parties.  The room seemed empty and was quiet.  A Mystery in Prague!!

Planning to go to Krakow in a few days we head to the main train station to purchase tickets on the night train.  We reserve two beds in a 4 person couchette.  The train ride is 8 hours so this way we don’t waste a day travelling and a hotel room.  The ticket agent wasn’t a very jovial fellow.  The ticket price is in koruna.  He says 3,169.  Yikes it sounds like a fortune.  Actually about $170 CAD for transportation and hotel.

IMG_20150819_205013We need to have some dinner.  I am still feeling full from our lunch so we wander around the area our apartment is in.  We find an Italian place nearby so decide to give it a try.  I only want soup!   My family will be amazed to hear that I ordered “Tomato Soup”!!  It is approaching a year since I was in the hospital where once I was eating on my own I felt I had a steady diet of tomato soup.  Breakfast, lunch and dinner.  I couldn’t face tomato soup for a very long time.  This however, is not your Campbell’s variety.  A very nice Italian variety!

Dresden 2 Prague – August 18, 2015

DSC_2950Our hotel in Dresden is only 800 meters from the main train station.  We were planning to walk but since it has been raining heavily since last night we decided to take a cab.  I am sure the driver took us the long way as we knew the route as the hotel staff mapped it for us.  But what do silly tourists know!

Boarding the train we discover that there are compartments.  This is the first train we have ridden with them.  Some have “Reserved” seats between specific stations.  Since we don’t know the intermediate stations it is difficult to know what seats are available.  We choose a compartment after asking the occupants if it is reserved.  We settle in.  Our compartment mates are a couple from Chile.  They endured a 17 hour flight to Frankfurt from Chile and face a similar flight back home.  They speak German as well as their Chilean Spanish.  The wife has a better grasp of English than her husband.  We enjoy conversation for most of the journey.

The ticket we purchased online takes us to the Praha-Holešovice train station which is north of the river and the main station.  We have no Czech cash and wander about the station for a bit getting advice a few times from a taxi driver who has offered to take us to our hotel.  We have no Korunas, there is no ATM at this station, the ticket machines take only coins and it is POURING RAIN.  He offers to take us to our hotel/apartment for 15 Euros.  Ok, Ok.  We bite.  A fixed fare taxi ride is definitely different that a metered one 🙂  We are whipping around Prague, over tram tracks, almost killing Czech citizens on our way to the address we were given.

He double parks in front of #9 gets his 15 Euros and is gone!  We go into the door of #9 and see a large stern looking guard type guy.  He does not look friendly.  I show him the email I have and he speaks and we catch “not hotel” and “is embassy”.  Okay then, this isn’t the place.  🙂  Good news is there is an ATM on the corner and we get some Czech cash, the smallest denominations the machine will dispense.  We get directions from a very nice young woman who points out that there is a metro station directly across the street and which station we need to go to.  Oh yes, did I mention it is POURING RAIN!.  The smallest note we have is 500 Koruna.  We have no idea how much the metro is, but the machines only accept coins.  We need change.  Stu tried to buy a bottle of water for 16 Kurona with a 500 Koruna bill.  The guys says he has no change and takes the water and puts it back on the shelf.  Hahaha.

There is a grocery store nearby, so I give it a go.  I find a bottle of wine for 109 Koruna (which I am pretty sure will not go to waste), and get 3 coins and some bills back as change.  I try to get more change for a 100 Koruna bill, but get shut down too.

Now with coins in hand, we head back to the ticket machines.  There is a button that says “English”  OK.  That changes the display to “Please select tariff”.  There are multiple buttons below with different zones, times and other things we know not of.  A kindly employee of the metro, who’s job isn’t helping tourists takes our coins, works some magic with 2 machines, coins in one, and out and in the other.  Voila, we have 2 tickets and a few coins left over 🙂

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We find our place Anyday Apartments.  We are home!!

 

 

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We have a kitchen,

 

DSC_2952A little eating area and dishes, glasses & cutlery for 3.  Nice.  We will go and buy some coffee and something for breakfast.  Maybe some beer for the little frig (lower door on the left below the coffee maker)

 


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A nicer bathroom than some places.

 

 

 

 

The rain is supposed to stop tomorrow by noon.  Fingers crossed.

Off to see the world