Category Archives: Peru

March 11, 2016 – Nazca

We had a very busy day!!

Today is our day to fly over the Nazca Lines.  I have seen these lines for many years on various documentary programs.  I am looking forward to seeing them in person.

DSC_0912We check in at the desk and we each get weighed.  Our tour operator neglected to tell us that we would need our passports.  We all have copies of our passports, but need a second piece of picture ID when using a copy.  Leslie doesn’t have another picture ID on her person at this time, so Leslie and I go back to the hotel to pick up passports.  Even though they say we‘re OK with the copies and additional picture ID I grab ours just in case.  A little detour to pick up another passenger at Mickey’s hostel (Mickey is Alfredo’s contact in Nazsca).

Back at the airport it doesn’t take long to go through almost big airport type security and we get loaded onto the plane based on weight.

We’re off!!

The Monkey
The Monkey
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The Parrot

 

 

 

 

 

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The Hummingbird
The Astronaut
The Astronaut

 

 

 

 

 

The aquaducts
The aquaducts

 

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These are a couple of shots our hotel.  It is very warm here.  I think 33 C.  Our cab driver in Lima the other day told us that the UV Index when we were there was 16!

 

 

DSC_0951I haven’t really paid much attention to the UV Index so I checked what Vancouver was today.  It ranged from 0 to 1.  Also checked Nazca and it was 12.  Not our normal sunshine.  We unfortunately didn’t get to enjoy the pool.  We did enjoy sitting outside in there outdoor common area last night.

 

 

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There are these beautiful trees in Nazca.  They are called Acacia trees.

 

 

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We are seeing some of the local people going about their business in town today.

 

 

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The boys chillaxing in the park.

 

 

 

DSC_0985Later we have a tour of some of the sights in Nazca.  We are walking up to the top of this hill to look at some of the Lines close up.  It is amazing that just this little bit of elevation makes a big difference in what you can see from the flat.

 

 

 

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There are some triangles here and a line that runs right into the mountains.

 

 

 

 

DSC_0027Now to see the Aquaducts.  Made by Pre-Columbian Nazca architects around A.D. 540.  There are a series of them.  Their spiral shape makes them quite unique.  They are used today by the local farms to supply water for irrigation.

 

DSC_0034To get to the center you must walk around the spiral until you get to the center.  These were built to clean the Aquaducts  by squatting and walking through the tunnel clearing out plants and roots so that the water flowed freely.  You cannot have any “small place phobias” for this job.

 

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This is the view from the center of one spiral through the tunnel to the next spiral.  The little bit of light at the end is the next Aquaduct.

 

 

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We have a little fun with long shadows 😉

 

 

We are taking the night bus tonight to Arequipa.  We have reserved seats that recline 160 degrees and have a leg rest.  Hopefully we will be able to sleep.  It is a 10 hour bus ride and we have been told by many people that there isn’t much to see so the night bus is the way to go.  I guess we’ll see 🙂

March 10, 2016 – Huacachina to Nazca

Today we are taking the bus to Nazca.  We were picked up in 2 tiny taxis for the short trip into Ica where the bus station is.

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We are booked on the Cruz del Sur double bus.  We have the first row on the upper level.  Great vantage from here!!

 

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The driver jockeys for position on the road.  He hangs to the left to see how many vehicles are in front of him and if anyone is coming towards us.  Some of these passes are a bit too close in my opinion 😉

 

 

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We see these little shed type things along the road.  They seem to be in marked out sections.  I have no idea what they are.

 

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Chicken is big big business in Peru.  We have seen these white tent type chicken houses every time we are on a bus.

 

 

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Still lots of wide open spaces.  Very hot out there!

 

 

 

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These are some of the homes we see along the way too.  We feel very fortunate!

March 9, 2016 – Huacachina, Peru

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Today we decided we would all try to climb the dunes, but starting at a different point that should be easier than what Stu and Greg did yesterday.

 

 

 

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We start up near where the dune buggies go and soon find ourselves on the tracks left by the buggies.  It is a bit firmer here.

 

DSC_9797Greg and Stu are a bit higher than Leslie and I.  Walking in this sand is like going up the down escalator.  Each step slides down, it is very difficult to make headway.

 

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We make it to the ridge of the dune.  Steep side on the right and steeper on the left.

 

 

 

 

 

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From here we can look out over the dunes and in the distance spot a little settlement in the sand.  It is the dark area in the center of this photo.

 

 

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Leslie and I call “uncle” and head back down from here.

 

 

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While the guys carry on up and up.

 

 

 

 

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Later in the day Stu and Greg are going on the dune buggy.

 

 

 

 

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There is a rag covering up some bit of the engine.  Looks safe, right??

 

 

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Off they go.  They will be out for 2 hours.  Some wild sand rides, some sandboarding and some sunset views.

 

 

Leslie and I wander around the tiny town of Huacachina.  It has full time residents of about 100 people.

 

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Near sunset we see people gathering at the top of the dunes to watch the sun go down.

 

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When I zoom in on this shot you can see the standard “selfie pose”.

 

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After sunset the people just start running down the dune.  Some falling and tumbling down.

 

 

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The boys are back.  Smiling faces tell us they enjoyed  😉

 

 

Here are some shots of their adventure.

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March 8, 2016 – Moving Day Paracas to Huacachina

The festival carried on again last night.  I was getting the knack of putting in my ear plugs so it was a bit better than other nights.  Loud music, I am told with more of a Peruvian tone than grunge rock.  We look forward to a quieter night tonight.

VoucherWe continued our negotiations with Alfredo last night.  We said we didn’t want to do sand boarding or dune buggies in Huacachina.  The price came down to $220 USD per person.  We agreed to this one.  We found the hotel he was offering online and couldn’t find availability for our dates and the price for other dates was $120 CAD per night.  The $220 covers a direct bus from Paracas to Huacachina, 2 nights hotel there, transfer to Ica, bus from Ica to Nazca, 1 night in a hotel, flight over the Nazca lines.  We think this is good, if everything that is written on a handwritten voucher from Alfredo works out.  We pay him a deposit of $130 USD per person, a total of $520.  Feeling a bit apprehensive but wanting to believe him.  Are we cynical North Americans??  Perhaps, but we did put our faith in Alfredo last night 😉

DSC_9691We arrive at Alfredo’s office at 10:40 or so.  The bus is scheduled to leave at 11:20.  He escorts us to the bus to load our big bags in.  It is a Mercedes mini bus that holds about 30 passengers.  It looks decent!!

Our faith in humanity is being restored.  Just before departure we board the bus and settle in for a ride of just over an hour.  We are unclear still on what happens when we reach Huacachina.  We are to pick up bus tickets to Nazca somehow.  When we arrive at the bus company office in Huacachina we stay on the bus as we were told they would drop us directly at our hotel.  The bus hostess asks us to leave too as apparently our hotel is right next door to the bus office.  Very convenient.  Alfredo’s stock rises again.

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This is what we see when we walk towards our room.  OK stock rises again!  This is truly an Oasis.

 

We settle into our rooms and head out to explore our new neighbourhood.

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This is a sand boarding and sand skiing destination.  It is about 30 degrees and odd to see shops with skis and snow boards out front.

Here is the Oasis lagoon.  Some small boats to rent by the hour.

 

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Just like in the movies, or maybe cartoons.  Idyllic .

 

 

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We come across this bar and think we might just return just cuz!

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As well a pseudo snow sports they also have dune buggies that take you out for a thrill and some awesome sunset shots.

 

 

 

DSC_9712I would guess that almost half of the vehicles here are these little yellow cars.  Most of them are taxis, but lots are private vehicles.   We did see 1 with a name on the back.  They are Daewoo.  To me Daewoo is stereo components (and I could be wrong) but I don’t believe I have seen a Daewoo car at home.  Wikipedia tells me they are big in automobiles.  Who knew!!

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Stu and Greg decide to climb the dune.  Leslie and I wisely stay behind to record the event.

 

 

 

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They get pretty high.  Greg reaches the top with his long legs.  Stu almost.  Very difficult walking in soft moving sand!

 

 

 

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Later we return to this place

 

 

 

 

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for Pisco Sours and some dinner.

 

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One of the Peruvian specialties is called “Causa”.  This is a dish that is like a mashed potato sandwich.  There are various fillings.  This one is mashed potatoes formed to make the base, a chicken filling and then more mashed potatoes on top.  Quite tasty as Leslie shared with us.  🙂

 

March 7, 2016 – Paracas, Ballestas Islands

The “Festival” was on again last night. Not as loud as the night before, but I woke up @ 3am and heard the music still going on.

Today is the day we take the boat to the “Poor Man’s
Galápagos”, Ballestas Islands. We looked into going to the
Galápagos Islands. It was going, to cost us about $5,000 CAD
for 4 days. We opted not to do that. This cost us 35 Soles
for the boat and 18 Soles for a 2 day National Reserve permit.
That comes to just over $20 CAD. It is not as large as the
Galápagos, but we feel it will be a better bang for our poor
puny Canadian Dollar.
Alfredo picks us up at our hotel the Bamboo Lodge to escort us
over to the dock where we purchase our extra pass for the
National Reserve for Ballestas Islands. The people line up and
get loaded into boats that carry between 30 and 47 passengers.
Open topped large speed boat style boats.

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We’re off, we pass this old abandoned boat that seems to serve as a perch for many many birds.

 

 

DSC_0748We are now headed to the other side of Paracas Peninsula. It
is there that “The Candelabra” is. This sits on the side of the hill. It is mysterious prehistoric geoglyph.

 

 

“The purpose and meaning of the Candelabra remain unknown.  There has been much speculation as to the reason it may have  been constructed. Was it a godly symbol, a gigantic seismograph, or simply a navigational tool for sailors?”

I think it was for navigation as Paracas is hidden by the
desert peninsula and this symbol will let seafarers know the
way to the port. Just my 25 Cents 🙂

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Perhaps the bigger mystery is where is the guy that rode the motorcycle??

 

 

From there we head out to the Ballestas Islands, this will take
about 25 minutes.  As we near the islands sea lions are spotted jumping along in the ocean near our boat.
DSC_0758We near the islands cliffs. Looking up we are reminded of the old western movies where the bad guys are all lining the cliffs ready for battle.

 

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Stu catches these birds having an intimate chat.

 

 

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A young sea lion basking in the sun on the rocks. We’re not sure how he got up so high.
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The Pelican section of the islands.

 

 

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Stu captured this huge bull sea lion in perfect “ROAR”.

 

 

DSC_0796In this shot the big black area on the top is actually a large group of black birds called the guanay guano bird. The millions of birds on the island drop so much guano that they harvest it every 8 months or so. This is sold around the world for fertilizer. I hope they where Hazmat suits. We can smell it from the boat. Not a nice job “Guano Harvester”!

 

DSC_0800This is the sea lion “maternity beach”. All of the little black things along the waterline are baby sea lions. The mothers are pregnant for 11 months and come to this beach to give birth to their babies. It sounded like they pretty much give birth and get pregnant again very soon after. One pup a year.

 

The rest of the day is spent very lazily.  Greg and I look over the recommendations given to us by Alfredo, who met us after the boat cruise to see what we had decided for the next few days of our time in Peru.  Still contemplating we told him.

March 6, 2016 – Paracas, The National Reserve

Well that was a night!! Wasn’t that a party!! Big celebration. The music from 2 blocks away boomed for about 4 hours after our tired bodies climbed into bed. Then about 2AM some fireworks and more music. The last time I checked the time it was about 4:30. It quieted down not long after that.

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Early morning shot of the same boats from sunset last night.

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We are on our way to meet Alfredo down the Paracas malicon.

 

 

 

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Today is the National Reserve day. We lather up with sunscreen and stock up with water at this little bodega.

 

We are to meet at Alfredo’s office @ 10:50 to join the tour at 11:00. He is still keen to sell us his tour and tells us that it is important to decide on the Nazca flight soon as they fill up quickly. I did a bit of checking online and from what little I find he seems to have a good reputation. He gives us a price for just the Transportation to Huacachina, then 2 nights there, trasportation to Nazca, accomodation, the flight and the night bus. $330 USD per person. So $660 USD per couple, which comes to about $900 CAD. We’re still contemplating!! Next thing we know he is providing us with a private tour of the National Reserve. English speaking guide who will stop where ever we want for photos or questions. OK? We are still contemplating. He is watching Stu and Greg go outside to chat as Leslie and I sit in his office waiting. Now he is re-working his numbers. Now it is $280 USD or 560 per couple and about $750 CAD. Our driver Julio arrives and we are off on our tour, still contemplating. 😉

The National Reserve is a desert. Julio tells us that stretches right down the coast through to Chile.

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We feel like we are in a Mad Max movie, the landscapes are so desolate. Not even a cactus grows here.

 

The only animals are lizards, geckos and foxes.

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There are fossils a plenty here. These are some spiral shells.

 

 

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This is the entrance to this area.

 

 

 

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They have stones laid out to mark where is okay to walk.

 

 

 

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Closer to the water there are over 200 species of birds that make this their home.

 

 

 

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The views from the cliffs are spectacular. Miles and miles of cliffs.

 

 

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Desert to the right and ocean to the left. Quite a contrast.

 

 

 

 

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Greg finds a porta-pottie to match his shirt. He gives it an 88 out of 100 which is way better than the rating Stu gave the Bano he paid 1 Sole (about 40 cents Canadain) for where we stopped for lunch.

 

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This is our lunch table. We just stood up and the gulls swooped in to clean up for us!! 😉

 

 

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This is the spot we stopped for lunch. About 5 restaurants in this little bay. A small beach where families swim and a bay beyond full of fishing boats. And LOTS of birds, gulls and pelicans.

There is a hill here so we must climb it. A larger view of where we are.

We ask Julio if it will be quieter in town tonight.  He says “Oh no, The FESTIVAL!!”  We say, “STILL??”  Turns out it s on until we leave on Tuesday.  hmmm.  Can you say sleep deprivation.  It reminds me a lot of one Easter we spent in Mexico.  We won’t make that mistake again.  Who knew there would be a Festival in Paracas??

March 5, 2016 – Travel Lima to Paracas

DSC_9576Travelling to Paracas on the bus today. Very comfortable double decker bus with leg rests, food trays, pillows and blankets. Cosy!!

 

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They even serve us a sandwich bun, piece of cake and beverage, coffee, tea or soda.

 

 

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There is not much worth seeing along the way. Shanty towns climbing up the hills.
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We did pass through a larger town and at the red light saw these crazy vehicles ready to dart off on the green light.

 

DSC_9594We passed what seemed like a couple of miles of auto mechanic shops side by side by side. This is one example. Tires piled on the roof seem to be the norm. I think it helps keeps the roof on in the wind!

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Also many miles of half built buildings. Most looked abandoned.

 

 

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Civiche

We arrive in Paracas and find a beautiful little bay with a wide beachside promenade. We are negotiating a tour with a fellow named Alfredo who met us

Grilled fish
Grilled fish

as we were walking from the bus depot to our hotel the Bamboo Lodge (0681). He is a smooth talker and is trying to get us to buy into the Ballestas

The aftermath
The aftermath

Island tour tomorrow morning followed by the National Reverve in the afternoon. We stop for some sustenance and beer to contemplate this decision.

 

 

We decide to book the National Reserve for tomorrow (Sunday) and the Islands that are dubbed the “Poor Man’s Galapagos” for Monday morning. We were up at 5:30 this morning for the bus and would like to sleep at bit later tomorrow.
Alfredo is also recommending an itinerary for us for the next 10 days or so. He thinks we have too much time. He can arrange everything he says!! 😉 Transportation to Huacachina, a night there, then transportation to Nazca, a night there and a flight over the Nazca Lines for the morning. Then he recommends “Friends to take the night bus from Nazca to Arequipa”. Then the Colca Canyon.  His itinerary is growing!!
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The sun is setting so the contemplation continues.

 

 

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This is where we are staying right on the malacon.

 

 

There is a festival in Paracas tonight. We think the earplugs will be necessary as the party ramps up. Many extra policia in town to keep the peace.

March 4, 2016 – Baranca Neighbourhood walk

Today we are walking to the ocean which is not far from Inti Killa. There is a path along the cliffs that will take us to Barranco, an area of Lima next to Miraflores where we are staying. It is purported to be a bohemian or artisan area.

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We arrive at the ocean park and find a Naval Lighthouse from 1900 It is still functional today.

 

 

 

 

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There is a lot of fitness equipment in the park by the bluffs and we do see a lot of people taking advantage of them.

 

DSC_9524We are high above the ocean. There is a company taking people paragliding. They were testing out the sails, but we didn’t see anyone actually taking the plunge off of the cliff.

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There are many parks along this path with interesting sculptures.

 

 

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This is a long running “Marriott” joke 🙂

 

 

 

DSC_9558We make it to Barranco by walking back towards a bridge that takes us across a ravine that is the route of the road along the ocean. We cross the bridge and are welcomed by this sign.

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There is a geocache here so I take some time to find it. Clever disguise under a bridge.

 

 

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As this is an artsy community there are lots of murals.

 

 

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Greg at the edge!!

 

 

 

 

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This is also a surfers paradise.

 

 

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We walked 15 Km today.  We are taking an early bus to Paracas tomorrow.  So heading to bed as I am exhausted.  The bus ride is 4 hours so I will write the blog on the bus.  🙂

March 3, 2016 – Self guided walking tour of Lima

DSC_0518Today’s plan is to go into the Historical area of downtown Lima. Mary our lady at our Hostel/Hotel gives us directions and an empty transit card that we will need to load with the amount of money we will need for return fares. After breakfast of buns, fruit salad, mini bananas, some juice we aren’t sure what kind and coffee we are off to  the center of Lima.

We navigate getting the card loaded and with broken Spanglish we make our way down to the electric bus that will take us downtown. There is a below grade highway that has dedicated lanes for the buses and at least 3 lanes for cars. As we speed along we are happy that we are on the bus and not in a cab. Traffic as we suspected yesterday seems to be busy busy all day, every day!

DSC_0535We disembark the bus at the Central Station and with the help of some very helpful locals make our way up to street level where we wander about looking at the wares the street vendors are offering and trying to get our bearings.

DSC_0533There is a walking tour in our guide book that we thought would be a great starting point. In other cities both Stu and I and Greg and Leslie have used the “Free” walking tours that are offered. You tip the guide at the end whatever you feel the tour is worth. After reading some very bad bad reviews on TripAdvisor on the free walking tour in Lima we decide to do a self guided tour.  As in many cities, outside of North America the street names seem to have a common theme.  “Hide and Seek”!!    Once we know where we are we are able to wander using our guide book as a resource.

There are lots of police around Lima today.  We aren’t sure if this is normal or due to impending elections.  Parque de la Muralla along the Rio Rimac is closed altogether.

DSC_0589We end our tour by walking through Lima’s Chinatown.  This is a very busy area with many many street vendors.   Here is a cart loaded with grapes.  We see a lady with a cart carrying  large Coke bottles filled with a cloudy orangey coloured foamy liquid.  She will pour you a glass if you like.  Another old fellow calling out what sounds to us like “Cherry Cola”.  This is in 2 clay pots on his cart.  He ladles this into cups for you.

We make our way back to the Central Station where we will catch the bus back to Miraflores.  It is about 4:30 and it definitely is now rush hour.  We are watching jam packed buses go past us heading to different destinations.  A very full bus pulls up to where we are standing in line.  A couple experienced people squeezed themselves on the bus.  The rest of us wait for the next one.  It isn’t as full as the previous one and after making contingency plans on what to do if we get separated, we all make it onto the bus.  This is an experience in itself.  It is standing room only for the first while.  At one stop a couple of ladies vacate their seats and Leslie and I grab them only to find that our stop is next and we need to start to make our way towards the doors so that we don’t get left behind.

DSC_0569Once we get off the bus we head back toward Inti Killa to find a Happy Hour beer before returning for a bit before dinner.

 

Mission accomplished!  In the cool little street filled with restaurants and bars.

Off home for a rest before dinner at the little Wine Bar next our place.  Very nice dinner!

 

March 2, 2016 – Arrival in Lima

We arrived in Lima just after 6 AM.  Other than being a Red Eye the flight was OK.  We find Red Eye’s very difficult.  I am not entirely sure it is because we are older, I don’t think we liked them much even when we were younger.   There doesn’t seem like anyway around this problem when travelling to this part of the world for a fare that we can live with.

We take the forms we have filled out on the plane to the Immigration queues.  Pretty easy process.  The Immigration form perforates and the bottom portion is returned to us to be kept with our passport.  We are to present it to Immigration again when we leave the country.  No losing this bit of paper!!

After claiming our baggage we head out to the Taxi area where we are expecting to be met and driven to our hostel in the Mira Flores area of Lima.  The four of us are scanning the waiting crowds for a sign that has a name that looks familiar to us.  Nothing.  We head outside to continue looking.  A woman comes running over to us with a sign with our hostel and Greg’s name.  She leads us to her taxi van where we load our luggage and pile in.

Shortly we are in the middle of Lima rush hour.  We do suspect that this is actually more the norm for this city.

DSC_9477Greg is in the front seat next to the driver.  We are glad she is driving!  However, Greg tells us after we arrive that she is falling asleep at red lights!!  Wholly Crap.  We are lucky to have arrived at all.

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We see these guys in the traffic.  They are selling fish from this odd look vehicle.

 

When we arrive at our hostel we are offered alternate accommodation at a property owned by the same owner.  For the same price about $77 CAD each couple per night, it is a 3 bedroom – 3 bathroom apartment a few blocks away from where we are.   It does sound nice, but after a conflab, we decide to stay where we are for a few reasons.  Mary, the receptionist is very helpful and we would like to pick her brain on our further plans.  Here we have the opportunity to meet and chat with other travelers, we like that idea (at least at the begining of our trip, might be a different story in 5 weeks 😉 )

One room is ready.  We leave all of our luggage in that room, change and head out to explore our area.  It is warm and humid here.

We find a spot for a bite to eat and wander back towards Inti Killa Hostel.  Checking out mini marts along the way to find the closest spot to return for some cold beer for Happy Hour.  We find we have one almost next door to our place!!  BONUS!!

It is noon and time for a nap.  There are 4 rooms per floor here.  Not long into the nap we are hearing doors banging shut, dogs barking.  Starting to wonder about that nice 3 bedroom apartment???……

I am having techinical difficulties with my card reader/usb cable???  Can’t get any photos off.  Will try to troubleshoot at Happy Hour!!

Got a new cable I’m good now.

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Out for dinner.  We have our first Pisco Sours.  National drink Peru claims.  Apparently so does Chile and Bolivia 🙂

 

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Stu should get a franchise!!