Category Archives: Paracas

March 8, 2016 – Moving Day Paracas to Huacachina

The festival carried on again last night.  I was getting the knack of putting in my ear plugs so it was a bit better than other nights.  Loud music, I am told with more of a Peruvian tone than grunge rock.  We look forward to a quieter night tonight.

VoucherWe continued our negotiations with Alfredo last night.  We said we didn’t want to do sand boarding or dune buggies in Huacachina.  The price came down to $220 USD per person.  We agreed to this one.  We found the hotel he was offering online and couldn’t find availability for our dates and the price for other dates was $120 CAD per night.  The $220 covers a direct bus from Paracas to Huacachina, 2 nights hotel there, transfer to Ica, bus from Ica to Nazca, 1 night in a hotel, flight over the Nazca lines.  We think this is good, if everything that is written on a handwritten voucher from Alfredo works out.  We pay him a deposit of $130 USD per person, a total of $520.  Feeling a bit apprehensive but wanting to believe him.  Are we cynical North Americans??  Perhaps, but we did put our faith in Alfredo last night 😉

DSC_9691We arrive at Alfredo’s office at 10:40 or so.  The bus is scheduled to leave at 11:20.  He escorts us to the bus to load our big bags in.  It is a Mercedes mini bus that holds about 30 passengers.  It looks decent!!

Our faith in humanity is being restored.  Just before departure we board the bus and settle in for a ride of just over an hour.  We are unclear still on what happens when we reach Huacachina.  We are to pick up bus tickets to Nazca somehow.  When we arrive at the bus company office in Huacachina we stay on the bus as we were told they would drop us directly at our hotel.  The bus hostess asks us to leave too as apparently our hotel is right next door to the bus office.  Very convenient.  Alfredo’s stock rises again.

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This is what we see when we walk towards our room.  OK stock rises again!  This is truly an Oasis.

 

We settle into our rooms and head out to explore our new neighbourhood.

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This is a sand boarding and sand skiing destination.  It is about 30 degrees and odd to see shops with skis and snow boards out front.

Here is the Oasis lagoon.  Some small boats to rent by the hour.

 

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Just like in the movies, or maybe cartoons.  Idyllic .

 

 

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We come across this bar and think we might just return just cuz!

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As well a pseudo snow sports they also have dune buggies that take you out for a thrill and some awesome sunset shots.

 

 

 

DSC_9712I would guess that almost half of the vehicles here are these little yellow cars.  Most of them are taxis, but lots are private vehicles.   We did see 1 with a name on the back.  They are Daewoo.  To me Daewoo is stereo components (and I could be wrong) but I don’t believe I have seen a Daewoo car at home.  Wikipedia tells me they are big in automobiles.  Who knew!!

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Stu and Greg decide to climb the dune.  Leslie and I wisely stay behind to record the event.

 

 

 

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They get pretty high.  Greg reaches the top with his long legs.  Stu almost.  Very difficult walking in soft moving sand!

 

 

 

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Later we return to this place

 

 

 

 

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for Pisco Sours and some dinner.

 

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One of the Peruvian specialties is called “Causa”.  This is a dish that is like a mashed potato sandwich.  There are various fillings.  This one is mashed potatoes formed to make the base, a chicken filling and then more mashed potatoes on top.  Quite tasty as Leslie shared with us.  🙂

 

March 7, 2016 – Paracas, Ballestas Islands

The “Festival” was on again last night. Not as loud as the night before, but I woke up @ 3am and heard the music still going on.

Today is the day we take the boat to the “Poor Man’s
Galápagos”, Ballestas Islands. We looked into going to the
Galápagos Islands. It was going, to cost us about $5,000 CAD
for 4 days. We opted not to do that. This cost us 35 Soles
for the boat and 18 Soles for a 2 day National Reserve permit.
That comes to just over $20 CAD. It is not as large as the
Galápagos, but we feel it will be a better bang for our poor
puny Canadian Dollar.
Alfredo picks us up at our hotel the Bamboo Lodge to escort us
over to the dock where we purchase our extra pass for the
National Reserve for Ballestas Islands. The people line up and
get loaded into boats that carry between 30 and 47 passengers.
Open topped large speed boat style boats.

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We’re off, we pass this old abandoned boat that seems to serve as a perch for many many birds.

 

 

DSC_0748We are now headed to the other side of Paracas Peninsula. It
is there that “The Candelabra” is. This sits on the side of the hill. It is mysterious prehistoric geoglyph.

 

 

“The purpose and meaning of the Candelabra remain unknown.  There has been much speculation as to the reason it may have  been constructed. Was it a godly symbol, a gigantic seismograph, or simply a navigational tool for sailors?”

I think it was for navigation as Paracas is hidden by the
desert peninsula and this symbol will let seafarers know the
way to the port. Just my 25 Cents 🙂

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Perhaps the bigger mystery is where is the guy that rode the motorcycle??

 

 

From there we head out to the Ballestas Islands, this will take
about 25 minutes.  As we near the islands sea lions are spotted jumping along in the ocean near our boat.
DSC_0758We near the islands cliffs. Looking up we are reminded of the old western movies where the bad guys are all lining the cliffs ready for battle.

 

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Stu catches these birds having an intimate chat.

 

 

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A young sea lion basking in the sun on the rocks. We’re not sure how he got up so high.
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The Pelican section of the islands.

 

 

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Stu captured this huge bull sea lion in perfect “ROAR”.

 

 

DSC_0796In this shot the big black area on the top is actually a large group of black birds called the guanay guano bird. The millions of birds on the island drop so much guano that they harvest it every 8 months or so. This is sold around the world for fertilizer. I hope they where Hazmat suits. We can smell it from the boat. Not a nice job “Guano Harvester”!

 

DSC_0800This is the sea lion “maternity beach”. All of the little black things along the waterline are baby sea lions. The mothers are pregnant for 11 months and come to this beach to give birth to their babies. It sounded like they pretty much give birth and get pregnant again very soon after. One pup a year.

 

The rest of the day is spent very lazily.  Greg and I look over the recommendations given to us by Alfredo, who met us after the boat cruise to see what we had decided for the next few days of our time in Peru.  Still contemplating we told him.

March 6, 2016 – Paracas, The National Reserve

Well that was a night!! Wasn’t that a party!! Big celebration. The music from 2 blocks away boomed for about 4 hours after our tired bodies climbed into bed. Then about 2AM some fireworks and more music. The last time I checked the time it was about 4:30. It quieted down not long after that.

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Early morning shot of the same boats from sunset last night.

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We are on our way to meet Alfredo down the Paracas malicon.

 

 

 

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Today is the National Reserve day. We lather up with sunscreen and stock up with water at this little bodega.

 

We are to meet at Alfredo’s office @ 10:50 to join the tour at 11:00. He is still keen to sell us his tour and tells us that it is important to decide on the Nazca flight soon as they fill up quickly. I did a bit of checking online and from what little I find he seems to have a good reputation. He gives us a price for just the Transportation to Huacachina, then 2 nights there, trasportation to Nazca, accomodation, the flight and the night bus. $330 USD per person. So $660 USD per couple, which comes to about $900 CAD. We’re still contemplating!! Next thing we know he is providing us with a private tour of the National Reserve. English speaking guide who will stop where ever we want for photos or questions. OK? We are still contemplating. He is watching Stu and Greg go outside to chat as Leslie and I sit in his office waiting. Now he is re-working his numbers. Now it is $280 USD or 560 per couple and about $750 CAD. Our driver Julio arrives and we are off on our tour, still contemplating. 😉

The National Reserve is a desert. Julio tells us that stretches right down the coast through to Chile.

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We feel like we are in a Mad Max movie, the landscapes are so desolate. Not even a cactus grows here.

 

The only animals are lizards, geckos and foxes.

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There are fossils a plenty here. These are some spiral shells.

 

 

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This is the entrance to this area.

 

 

 

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They have stones laid out to mark where is okay to walk.

 

 

 

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Closer to the water there are over 200 species of birds that make this their home.

 

 

 

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The views from the cliffs are spectacular. Miles and miles of cliffs.

 

 

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Desert to the right and ocean to the left. Quite a contrast.

 

 

 

 

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Greg finds a porta-pottie to match his shirt. He gives it an 88 out of 100 which is way better than the rating Stu gave the Bano he paid 1 Sole (about 40 cents Canadain) for where we stopped for lunch.

 

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This is our lunch table. We just stood up and the gulls swooped in to clean up for us!! 😉

 

 

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This is the spot we stopped for lunch. About 5 restaurants in this little bay. A small beach where families swim and a bay beyond full of fishing boats. And LOTS of birds, gulls and pelicans.

There is a hill here so we must climb it. A larger view of where we are.

We ask Julio if it will be quieter in town tonight.  He says “Oh no, The FESTIVAL!!”  We say, “STILL??”  Turns out it s on until we leave on Tuesday.  hmmm.  Can you say sleep deprivation.  It reminds me a lot of one Easter we spent in Mexico.  We won’t make that mistake again.  Who knew there would be a Festival in Paracas??

March 5, 2016 – Travel Lima to Paracas

DSC_9576Travelling to Paracas on the bus today. Very comfortable double decker bus with leg rests, food trays, pillows and blankets. Cosy!!

 

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They even serve us a sandwich bun, piece of cake and beverage, coffee, tea or soda.

 

 

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There is not much worth seeing along the way. Shanty towns climbing up the hills.
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We did pass through a larger town and at the red light saw these crazy vehicles ready to dart off on the green light.

 

DSC_9594We passed what seemed like a couple of miles of auto mechanic shops side by side by side. This is one example. Tires piled on the roof seem to be the norm. I think it helps keeps the roof on in the wind!

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Also many miles of half built buildings. Most looked abandoned.

 

 

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Civiche

We arrive in Paracas and find a beautiful little bay with a wide beachside promenade. We are negotiating a tour with a fellow named Alfredo who met us

Grilled fish
Grilled fish

as we were walking from the bus depot to our hotel the Bamboo Lodge (0681). He is a smooth talker and is trying to get us to buy into the Ballestas

The aftermath
The aftermath

Island tour tomorrow morning followed by the National Reverve in the afternoon. We stop for some sustenance and beer to contemplate this decision.

 

 

We decide to book the National Reserve for tomorrow (Sunday) and the Islands that are dubbed the “Poor Man’s Galapagos” for Monday morning. We were up at 5:30 this morning for the bus and would like to sleep at bit later tomorrow.
Alfredo is also recommending an itinerary for us for the next 10 days or so. He thinks we have too much time. He can arrange everything he says!! 😉 Transportation to Huacachina, a night there, then transportation to Nazca, a night there and a flight over the Nazca Lines for the morning. Then he recommends “Friends to take the night bus from Nazca to Arequipa”. Then the Colca Canyon.  His itinerary is growing!!
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The sun is setting so the contemplation continues.

 

 

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This is where we are staying right on the malacon.

 

 

There is a festival in Paracas tonight. We think the earplugs will be necessary as the party ramps up. Many extra policia in town to keep the peace.